Fashion

Fashion Projects
15 Years of Fashion in Dialogue
Fashion Projects: 15 Years of Fashion in Dialogue anthologizes the New York–based journal Fashion Projects. The book is an index of a particular time within the fashion studies landscape and the attendant fields of fashion writing fashion curation and critical fashion practice during which the field witnessed a meteoric rise.
The long-running non-profit journal Fashion Projects was described by The Paris Review as “a journal devoted to critical discourse in fashion” Fashion Projects was founded in New York in 2005 as a zine. It gradually morphed into a larger journal straddling the academic and general interest worlds with international distribution and an ardent readership. It served as a platform to highlight the importance of fashion within current critical discourses through longform interviews with a range of curators critics artists and designers. This book collects together the best articles from the journal most issues of which are now unavailable.
From exploring the rise of digital fashion media with Penny Martin (the founding editor-in-chief of SHOWstudio) to the continued importance of connoisseurship with Harold Koda (former Curator in Chief of the Met’s Costume Institute) the anthology records the increasing centrality of fashion to contemporary critical discourse.

Experiences of self-gifting luxury fashion during the COVID-19 pandemic
Consumer behaviour is known to change during trying times as consumption has implications for the self. In fact the beginning of the COVID-19 pandemic saw a rise in self-gifting. Adopting a psychological lens this novel study explored females’ experiences of self-gifting luxury fashion during the pandemic. Given the under-researched area an exploratory qualitative approach was adopted and interpretative phenomenological analysis was used to understand participants’ experiences. A homogenous sample of four females were interviewed using semi-structured interviews to elicit rich data. Findings demonstrated that self-gifting of luxury fashion during the pandemic was a complex phenomenon that seemed to contribute to participants’ psychological well-being. The discussion links and extends the literature on self-gifting luxury consumer behaviour and consumption during trying times. It highlights implications for academic research individuals brands and retailers.

Contemporary queer fashion media as personal liberations: Qwear, digital media and twenty-first-century queer fashion shows
In the twenty-first century the emergence of numerous fashion brands catering to queer and trans communities has been accompanied by the establishment of notable queer-focused fashion media platforms. Noteworthy among these are DapperQ and Qwear which specialize in exploring the intersections of fashion style and the experiences of queer and trans individuals. This study delves into the history and intricacies of Qwear one of these contemporary groundbreaking queer media outlets. By examining this outlet we aim to unravel the multifaceted layers that distinguish them as influential conveyors of queer and trans sensibilities. To achieve our purpose we employed a historical research method incorporating the analysis of primary sources and oral history. Overall Qwear has become more than just outlets for style that is they stand as pillars of empowerment offering safer havens for individuals to explore celebrate and redefine their relationship with fashion. Sonny Oram’s founding journey of Qwear rooted in personal healing through clothing underscores the transformative power of fashion as a tool for self-discovery activism and solidarity within the queer and trans communities.

Analysis and optimization strategies for key factors in children’s clothing design
This study delves into the critical factors influencing children’s clothing design through a multifaceted approach. The investigation elucidates the most significant design elements by employing qualitative research methods the fuzzy Delphi method (FDM) and the fuzzy analytic hierarchy process (FAHP). Initially semi-structured interviews were conducted with experienced professionals encompassing children’s clothing designers and related specialists with a minimum of fifteen years of expertise. These interviews served to gather valuable insights and experiences. Subsequently the FDM was utilized to assess the relative importance of identified design elements. Finally the FAHP was implemented to determine the weights assigned to each factor establishing a hierarchy of importance. The findings reveal that safety reigns supreme as the most critical design consideration. Following safety are comfort style elements and practicality. Safety prioritizes the utilization of non-toxic materials and secure fastenings. Comfort emphasizes breathable fabrics and textures that are gentle against the skin. Style elements encompass colour palettes patterns and the incorporation of creative design aspects. Practical considerations delve into age-appropriateness freedom of movement garments with multifunctional purposes and enduring durability. This comprehensive study offers invaluable guidance for the field of children’s clothing design. It empowers designers to effectively address the needs of children while aligning with parental expectations. Ultimately this approach propels market development and fosters children’s enhanced quality of life.

Turning puzzle games into fashion: Exploring personal outfits through symbol-based clothing assembly
The intersection of gaming and fashion opens a novel avenue for personal expression through symbol-based clothing assembly akin to puzzle games. This study delves into the transformative potential of integrating the mechanics of puzzles into creating personal outfits fostering a platform for individuals to manifest their distinctive style and creativity. The research scrutinizes the design process highlighting the symbiotic relationship between self-expression and individuality and the cognitive stimulation provided by the puzzle-solving aspect that enhances the wearer’s brainstorming capabilities. Implementing this concept poses a unique set of challenges and opportunities aiming to redefine the paradigms of fashion design. Ultimately this innovative approach seeks to revolutionize personal style creating a dynamic and interactive experience that resonates with the wearer’s identity and ingenuity.

Fashion influences of women university administrators
Women administrators are responsible for a broad array of difficult management tasks that affect their higher education institutions. There exist great societal expectations regarding women’s dress and appearance management practices. In this study we identify the clothing-related influences women leaders used to develop their roles as university administrators. We interviewed 36 women in high-level administrative leadership roles at a Midwestern doctoral-granting land grant university. Qualitative thematic analysis revealed four major influences: (1) the importance of complying with the (unofficial) university dress code or ‘uniform’ (2) the comparison negotiation and influence of others (3) dressing for their roles and (4) fitting into social and cultural norms. Through the lens of social identity theory findings revealed that administrators’ practices were negotiated through a process of observation contemplation of their own individuality and responsibilities and close identification of themselves as leaders within their specific university setting. Implications for retailers and aspiring leaders are included.

Visual merchandising in fashion retail: The diversity, equity and inclusion (DEI) perspective
Diversity equity and inclusion (DEI) has been at the forefront of many disciplines in recent years. Utilizing three different aspects of visual merchandising in the context of fashion retail this study investigates the effects of (1) colours of mannequins (2) sizes of mannequins and (3) the presence of a rainbow flag as signage in a physical store on consumers’ feelings towards the store and related clothing styles in addition to their perceptions of the store’s commitment to DEI. Using an online survey data were collected from a 2 × 2 × 2 factorial experimental design with 382 responses. Findings suggest that mannequin sizes influenced the participants’ overall feelings towards a store in addition to mixed interaction effects among mannequin sizes colours and/or use of a rainbow flag. Discussion and implications are provided.

Online reviews and Gen Z consumers’ satisfaction in the apparel industry: An expectation disconfirmation theory
This research article aims to analyse how online reviews influence the satisfaction level of Generation Z (Gen Z) consumers within the apparel industry by using the expectation disconfirmation theory as the analytical framework. Five hypotheses have been developed regarding the relationships between online reviews and satisfaction through literature review and were examined using partial least squares structural equation modelling (PLS-SEM). In the research article data were gathered from 350 Gen Z consumers engaged in online shopping across three districts of Punjab. Questionnaires were distributed to the respondents in hard copy and Google Forms. The findings from this research article suggest a positive correlation between online reviews and the satisfaction level of Gen Z consumers in the apparel industry. The analysis reveals that online reviews play a significant role in influencing the online shopping of apparel.

Threads of insight: Exploring the narrative of online reviews (2002–22) in the apparel industry through bibliometrics
Online reviews have become crucial in research and consumer decision-making providing insights into customer perspectives on products and services. In today’s digital age they are an essential tool for retailers to engage with their customers. This is particularly true in the apparel industry where understanding consumer satisfaction and preferences is key to crafting effective marketing strategies. Despite the abundance of literature on the impact of online reviews on consumer evaluations of ready-made garments there has been limited scientific analysis of this extensive body of work. This bibliometric study utilizes performance analysis and science mapping to rigorously examine the body of literature on online reviews. Performance analysis assesses the quality and quantity of various scientific contributions using a suite of bibliometric indicators such as publication trends leading authors and journals and the most influential publications. To complement this science mapping is employed to elucidate the broader intellectual social and conceptual frameworks of the field providing a holistic view of its fundamental dynamics that performance analysis alone cannot offer. We analysed 161 articles published between 2002 and 2022 selected via targeted keywords from the Scopus database. The data was processed using VOSviewer (1.6.20) and Biblioshiny a web-based platform powered by the R-package Bibliometrix 4.1. This study not only delves into the historical and current states of the literature but also identifies and discusses future research agendas in online reviews within the apparel industry.

The impact of social physique anxiety on clothing choices among female university students
Media and societal values play a significant role in influencing social physique anxiety among female university students. This in turn affects the multifaceted roles that attire assumes including concealing enhancing and expressing. A recent study conducted in Taiwan examined 503 female college students utilizing the Social Physique Anxiety Scale and Clothing Functions Scale. The research aimed to uncover how anxiety about body image influences the selection of clothing. Cluster analysis identified three distinct groups: those with a ‘Confident’ ‘Comfortable’ and ‘Anxious’ body image. Further analysis through ANOVA revealed variations in clothing preferences across these clusters. Regression analysis then delved into the impact of public physical and competitive and non-public evaluative and comfort on clothing choices within each group. The findings indicated that clothing preferences were strongly influenced by the level of anxiety. While individuality and fashion preferences remained stable high anxiety levels led to more practical and concealing clothing choices. In contrast lower anxiety levels were associated with more individualistic and fashionable selections. The study emphasized the significant roles of ‘PPC’ and ‘NPEC’ in shaping clothing functions within the identified clusters highlighting the complex relationship between self-perception attire and self-expression in the pursuit of confidence. Overall the research emphasized the strong correlation between social physique anxiety and the decisions made in clothing selection.

A conceptual evolution and multifaceted concept of design: From historical definitions to modern perspectives and its integration with fashion
This article explores the evolution and diverse interpretations of ‘design’ throughout history emphasizing its broader implications beyond mere aesthetics. Initially a verb in the English language during the 1500s design encompasses a range of activities from thought and planning to the creation and execution of artefacts. The work challenges narrow perceptions highlighting design’s role across various domains as identified by Terence Love who views it as a set of instructions for realization. The discourse extends to the discipline of design asserting that all human activity inherently involves design thus blurring the distinctions between design and daily life. The article also delves into fashion design tracing its historical significance and the transition from individual craftsmanship to mass production and the subsequent rise of different fashion genres. Additionally the relationship between design and style is scrutinized noting the influence of societal and cultural factors on fashion. The article concludes with an examination of aesthetics in design underscoring the essential balance between functionality and visual appeal in successful design outcomes.

Gen-Z’s engagement with micro-cores: Exploring aesthetics and identity in contemporary times
‘Aesthetics’ is the new ‘it’ word among Gen-Zs. They stand for stylized visual trends shared on social media platforms like TikTok and Instagram. The suffix -core is frequently used on these social media platforms to describe the various aesthetics. These micro-cores have emerged as mediums of self-expression and catalysts for social change amongst Gen-Zs. This study aims to understand the concept of trending micro-cores and the impact they have on framing identities of today’s youth who have grown up amid warnings of impending doom brought on by climate change pandemic lockdowns and economic collapse. The study discusses four micro-cores – Barbiecore Y2K quiet luxury and e-girl/e-boy – to understand their meaning origin and relevance in current cultural contexts. It follows a qualitative approach with an interpretivist paradigm to develop themes from literature by analysing website blogs and social media content. The study then triangulates the data by surveying Gen-Z participants to understand their perspectives on the influences that urge people to adapt to these micro-cores.

The meaning of the mask: Ambivalent social identity and mask refusal in COVID America
This article will consider the medical face mask as both an accessory and a protective barrier utilizing embodied dress theory. The face mask is now a symbol of ambivalent social identity and centrally the anxiety of who the mask is protecting – who is the ‘sick one’ here? This anxiety turned to powerful backlash against this small but key piece of the personal protective equipment (PPE) and against public health mandates ruling masks must be worn in certain settings. This article will examine the mask-refusal movement in the United States to unpick the roots of this backlash breaking new ground through utilizing key studies on cultural memory in America to propose that its origins come from an active belief in the ‘rugged individualism’ of the American psyche borne from the myth of the frontier spirit which runs through American collective consciousness underpinned by masculine ideologies. This article will suggest that with the reaction to the face mask we see further evidence that dressing oneself is an everyday embodied practice which has high stakes during a deadly global pandemic. The article suggests practices and activities that fashion and dress scholars could engage in to actively use embodied dress theory in the future research to develop public health policies based on solidarity and empathy and design masks we will want to wear.

Queering paisa style: The chunti style of buchonas, queer rancheros and Paisaboys
This article examines a Mexican and Mexican American style of dress referenced to as paisa style. This style of dress is often associated with corrido norteño and Banda culture. In fact after the Quebradita movement during the 1990s Mexican American youth adopted this style to create what is referred to as Chalinillo paisa subculture which was heavily inspired by corrido singer Chalino Sanchez. Following Dick Hebdige’s definition of subculture as ‘the expressive forms and rituals of those subordinate groups’ in this article I study how paisa style was worn to signify cultural pride in a moment of heavy anti-immigrant sentiment. In an effort to study the contemporary examples of paisa style I analyse the work of four artists: queer photographer Fabian Guerrero queer model Jose Hernandez beauty influencer Jennifer Ruiz and brand designers Paisaboys. Using a performative discursive analysis I show how contemporary queer artists and influencers most of whom are not in the music world have reappropriated the paisa aesthetic to centre feminine and queer embodiments. These queer artists are not only demanding the recognition of queer sexualities in this subculture but they are also asking us to think about paisa dress as archives that hold memories migration stories and their potential to change past narratives. The artists studied in this article add new signification to paisa subculture that centres a Brown queer lens.

Clothes shopping is a chore: Plus-size men’s experiences of clothes shopping in the United Kingdom
The body positivity movement has called for greater inclusion of diverse body types within the fashion industry. Although a growing number of high street womenswear brands now include plus-size ranges and employ curvier models to represent them UK menswear is still trailing far behind. Fashionable clothing for larger men is scarce and the lack of research literature on the clothes shopping experiences of UK plus-size male consumers reflects this gap. The current research is the first study to explore male plus-size consumers’ experiences of clothes shopping in the United Kingdom. Semi-structured interviews were conducted online with ten plus-size men and reflexive thematic analysis was used to generate two key themes. First the ‘we struggle to fit in’ theme explores plus-size men’s problematic experiences of fitting into shopping environments fitting in with their peers’ shopping experiences and fitting into clothes. The second theme ‘we little care about what we wear’ identifies how the men dismissed clothes shopping fashion and appearance concerns and identified gender differences as a means to justify these actions. Together these themes demonstrate that plus-size men experience clothes shopping as a chore. Ultimately we advise menswear brands to use these findings to facilitate a more welcoming supportive and enjoyable shopping experience for plus-size men.

Can you be unique by wearing fast fashion? Exploring South African contemporary female consumers’ creative behaviour towards fast fashion uniqueness
Contemporary female consumers manage their appearance through current fashion trends and styles. The desire to be unique drives consumers to develop appearances that are perceived to differentiate them from others. In a world where fast fashion delivers multiple copies of one fashion item it is difficult to imagine if fast fashion could deliver a unique appearance. Little research has considered the possibility of achieving fast fashion uniqueness. The behaviour of South African female consumers and their desire for fast fashion uniqueness as proposed in the theory of the need for uniqueness has also not been researched. The purpose of this study was to determine the meaning of fast fashion uniqueness and the behaviour related to the dimensions of uniqueness. An exploratory descriptive qualitative study was used to determine the fast fashion unique experiences of female fashion shoppers in South Africa. Thematic analysis of electronic individual interviews revealed the meaning of uniqueness manifested through mechanisms of self-expression and design creativity. Contribution to uniqueness theory is expressed through a socially acceptable appearance typified by creative choice counter-conformity behaviour. Unpopular choice counter-conformity behaviour was expressed through precautionary and guarding behaviour. Avoidance of similarity behaviour resulted in similarity acceptance behaviour characterized by helplessness and acceptance of fast fashion duplication due to the inability to avoid similarity experienced during fast-fashion retail purchases. Coping strategies and avoidance behaviour tactics were applied to avoid fashion similarities. Fashion creativity serves as the mechanism through which contemporary fast fashion consumers achieve fast fashion appearance uniqueness. Fast fashion retailers in South Africa may need to improvise fashion offerings and give consumers alternative appearances to accommodate the creative uniqueness that female consumers are compelled to apply to achieve fast fashion uniqueness.

Viewers’ sensations: Using skin sensor technology to assess wearable technology
Wearable technology garments have been displayed for aesthetic evaluation in museums. With the additional multisensory cues in wearable technology garments such as digital sounds and LED lights this study examined 44 museum visitors’ electrodermal activity (EDA) sensory responses to a wearable technology garment in a museum. Results support that apparel with music-only sensory cues (rather than lights-only no music or lights and both music along with lights) created an enhanced sensory response due to viewers of the music-only garment having the highest EDA response after accounting for their baseline EDA. It is suggested that apparel designers and museum curators consider incorporating music and even music with lights into their designs for display at museums to promote enhanced sensory engagement for viewers. Conversely it is not recommended that designs utilize lights-only in these designs without the presence of music.

Chinese consumers’ attitudes towards clothing that incorporate Chinese cultural elements: A mixed method study


In the globalized fashion market a growing number of fashion brands and designers are utilizing Chinese cultural elements as a branding strategy to create competitive differentiation and attract Chinese consumers. Nevertheless Chinese consumers’ attitudes towards different styles of clothing that incorporate Chinese cultural elements remain uncertain. Therefore the present study aimed to investigate Chinese consumers’ attitudes towards clothing that incorporate Chinese cultural elements. The study also explored the factors that influence their attitudes. A mixed method approach was employed to survey 189 Chinese consumers aged 18–30. The survey encompassed attitude scales and open-ended questions. Paired samples t-tests and inductive coding were used in the data analysis. The study’s findings indicated that Chinese consumers illustrated a significantly positive attitude towards Chinese-style clothing incorporating Chinese cultural elements compared to global-style clothing incorporating Chinese cultural elements. Moreover five factors influence Chinese consumers’ attitudes namely cultural experience with Chinese cultural elements symbolism of Chinese cultural elements nationalist sentiments cultural aesthetics and innovation of clothing and the harmony between the clothing style and Chinese cultural elements. Practical implications to fashion brands and fashion designers are discussed.

A woke brand? An analysis of Nike and the limits of corporate social responsibility (CSR) in the fashion-industrial complex
In an era marked by heightened social consciousness and impacted by Black Lives Matter (BLM) fashion brands worldwide endeavour to position themselves as socially responsible. This study scrutinizes Nike a global leader in the fashion-industrial complex and its ‘woke’ corporate social responsibility (CSR) practices. By conducting a detailed case study of Nike’s ‘woke’ CSR initiatives and analysing social media user comments the research seeks to unveil the tensions and constraints of ‘woke’ CSR. The study investigates the social media discourse surrounding Nike’s image focusing on racial consciousness and concludes that the brand’s ‘woke’ CSR initiatives are not transformative; they merely perform wokeness. The analysis uncovered three common themes in the social media data: (1) the commodification of BLM (2) commodity activism and (3) woke-washing. By examining the limits of Nike’s ‘woke’ CSR practices within the fashion-industrial complex this study provides insights into the challenges and opportunities for brands seeking to meet socially conscious consumers’ evolving expectations.

Undergraduate curators: Production of a justice-oriented fashion museum exhibition
The purpose of this scholarship on teaching is to examine how undergraduate students can engage with justice-oriented fashion history through curating a small fashion exhibition as a group project in a single 17-week semester. I explore how both scaffolding and formative assessment techniques shaped this undergraduate learning experience. To build this case study I drew upon multiple sources including the syllabus course materials provided to the students literature used to build the course and my faculty self-ratings. The instructions for the entire project were broken down into smaller tasks due throughout the semester. I found that students were heavily engaged throughout the entire process particularly when browsing the fashion collection for potential objects. Overall this project serves as an example for undergraduates curating exhibitions in a one-semester format using a smaller university fashion collection with modest resources overcoming the previously documented roadblocks to using fashion teaching collections.

Black women, Brazilian butt lifts and body image: A qualitative study on the role social media play in promoting the thick ideal
Brazilian butt lift (BBL) surgery is defined by the American Board of Cosmetic Surgery as ‘a specialized fat transfer procedure that augments the size and shape of the buttocks without implants’. While members of all ethnic and racial groups elect to get cosmetic surgery BBLs are especially popular among Black women. Unlike the Eurocentric beauty standard to be as thin as possible Black women strive for an in-between weight otherwise known as the thick ideal. This body ideal is based on the Mammy and Jezebel stereotypes of Black women and can cause women with excess or too little curves to feel a sense of inferiority or a lack of racial acceptance. Many prominent Black celebrities and influencers have either had encouraged or drawn attention to BBLs through various mass media channels including social media. Thus this research aimed to understand the trend towards buttock augmentation and body concerns among Black women and examine if social media play a role in sharing information and opinions regarding the procedure within the Black community. The research was guided by two questions: (1) what discussions are Black women having about BBLs on social media? (2) Do conversations about BBLs impact Black women’s body image and body satisfaction? To explore the purpose videos on TikTok were examined. TikTok a video-focused social networking platform was chosen due to its rising popularity focus on appearance-based content and its emphasis on collaboration and conversation. The results fell under two themes: (1) motivations for having a BBL and (2) resistance against having a BBL. The themes were consistent with previous research done on the relationship between internet use and body image concerns previous research conducted on the impact of the thick ideal on Black women’s body image and sociocultural theories of self-objectification social comparison and body surveillance.

Service quality expectations of international fashion apparel brands in India: Satisfaction loyalty and the mediating role of culture
Service quality is an important determinant of customer brand experience customer satisfaction and customer loyalty with cross-cultural differences leading to varied expectations of service from consumers. Our research aims to understand the influence of the service quality expectations and cultural factors that influence customer satisfaction and loyalty and the moderating role of cultural values on the relationship between customer satisfaction and loyalty of international fashion apparel brand purchasing of young consumers in India. Data collected across 142 young consumers in India via questionnaire are analysed using PLS_SEM structural modelling. The findings indicate that the service quality parameter tangibility has a significantly positive relationship with customer satisfaction while both reliability and formality positively influence customer loyalty. The cultural value self-transcendence depicts a significant positive relationship with customer loyalty while the moderating effect of conservation on the relationship between customer satisfaction and customer loyalty is also significantly positive validating the role of cultural values as both a predictor and moderator of customer purchase motivation.

When East meets West: The politicization of kei pou (qipao) or cheongsam in Hong Kong
Kei pou (qipao in Mandarin) or cheongsam the oft-interchangeable style of dress has been labelled as the ‘Chinese national dress’ due to western media. However the perception originally stems from colonial mindset lacking understanding to the diverse Chinese diaspora. This article argues not only is kei pou or cheongsam the representation of Hong Kong’s local culture but also the symbolism of Hongkonger’s cultural identity. Through object-based research the article engages with a rare red quilted kei pou purchased in Hong Kong in the 1980s. The dress illustrates the true Oriental beauty with the symbolism of elegance and sophistication of Hong Kong women from an East Asian perspective. The article clarifies the etymological confusion between kei pou and cheongsam through their stylistic taxonomy and historical development and examines the cultural-political connotations of these two styles of dress and their semiotics in constructing the identity of Hongkongers. Consequently the research proposes the interconnected relationship between the city and the dress in which exists not only within the contexts of marginalized culture in the Eurocentric world but also within the authoritarian-ruled China.

Anti-sacred fashion: The use of profane performative costumes in the black metal music and performances of Nergal and Behemoth
This article examines the ways in which fashion and costume represent and communicate distinctive anti-authority sentiments and ideological positions and is based on a case study of the Polish black metal artist Adam Darski otherwise known as Nergal. The article critically explores the ways in which costumes worn by Nergal are confrontational in terms of their subversion of religious garments adornments and symbols as part of an artistic and political strategy designed to communicate profane stances and critiques in the context of the Catholic church in Poland. The article investigates the communicative nature of costume and fashion focusing on popular music and the genre of heavy metal and relates this analysis to the sociology of Emile Durkheim and Marcel Mauss in terms of their conceptions of the sacred and the profane and ritual practice. In this way Nergal uses the aesthetic of black metal to design and communicate a distinctive oppositional position in which the use of profane fashion and costume is a central and crucial factor.

Fashion Projects
15 Years of Fashion in Dialogue
Fashion Projects: 15 Years of Fashion in Dialogue anthologizes the New York–based journal Fashion Projects. The book is an index of a particular time within the fashion studies landscape and the attendant fields of fashion writing fashion curation and critical fashion practice during which the field witnessed a meteoric rise.
The long-running non-profit journal Fashion Projects was described by The Paris Review as “a journal devoted to critical discourse in fashion” Fashion Projects was founded in New York in 2005 as a zine. It gradually morphed into a larger journal straddling the academic and general interest worlds with international distribution and an ardent readership. It served as a platform to highlight the importance of fashion within current critical discourses through longform interviews with a range of curators critics artists and designers. This book collects together the best articles from the journal most issues of which are now unavailable.
From exploring the rise of digital fashion media with Penny Martin (the founding editor-in-chief of SHOWstudio) to the continued importance of connoisseurship with Harold Koda (former Curator in Chief of the Met’s Costume Institute) the anthology records the increasing centrality of fashion to contemporary critical discourse.

Authentic or fake fashion-branded items? Narratives exploring consumers’ perceptions towards copycat brands among Middle Eastern individuals
This study explores the motives behind preferring luxury fashion-branded items and consumers’ perceptions towards copycat brands. A qualitative approach has been adopted in this research as narratives were obtained from 22 participants. Participants share their thoughts on the reasons for preferring luxury fashion-branded items and the meanings they associate with copycat brands. The results and conclusion of the current study indicate that the key reason for purchasing luxury fashion-branded items is status elevation and the urge to conform to and be associated with specific social norms and classes. Therefore they tend to consume copycat brands because of their inability to purchase authentic brands and of the elevation of status and conformity associated with luxury fashion-branded items. This research also provides insights into understanding the different motivations resulting in the consumption of copycat brands. Precisely this research underlines the importance of country of consumption in reflecting positive perceptions towards copycat brands. As a result this research is the first to consider the relationship between the country of consumption and the acceptance of consuming copycat brands among individuals who are affected by status elevation motives and social norms.

The dress and commercial image of the American ‘Fat Lady’, 1850–1920
In this article I analyse the genre of ‘Fat Lady’ photographs popular between the mid-nineteenth and mid-twentieth centuries. I assert that there is an archetypal appearance that developed in the 1860s and was standardized by the 1880s consisting of certain dress grooming and posing practices that emphasized their subjects’ sizes and presumed social status. Fatness was a performance that these women were employed to embody – one that straddled the lines between corporeal deviance and normality. Freak shows reveal cultural anxieties about bodies. The way Fat Lady performers were costumed reflected concerns about fatness taking up too much space and visibility as well as fatness rendering people immature and androgynous thereby challenging established sex-role differences; it also revealed the potential erotic allure of extreme body size. Over a century of popularity Fat Lady performers came to rely on costumes inspired by evening dress childrenswear and then lingerie all of which grew scantier as time progressed. Existing cartes de visite cabinet cards posters advertisements reports from journalists and side show insiders and rare interviews with the performers themselves provide material for close analysis.

Hanfu catwalk shows: A performance of Chinese femininities


This article analyses the complex relationship between the construction of gender identities among young Chinese females and the practice of dressing up in Hanfu attire. The study employs the perspectives of dress as a situated embodied practice the performativity of gender and the catwalk as a form of performance art. By drawing on an ethnography of self-defined Hanfu fans in Beijing China the authors investigate how the female participants construct femininities through performing on Hanfu catwalks. The ethnographic findings are that first the Hanfu catwalk mediates the intricate interplay of Chinese aesthetic norms and gender expression between performers and the audience. Second wearing Hanfu is an embodied practice unifying the Hanfu costume style gender construction and corporeal acts situated in China’s sociopolitical context. Third Chinese femininity is complex with both flexibility and internal conflicts reflecting China’s paradoxical modernization.

Indonesian metrosexuals on Instagram: A phenomenological approach of male fashion style experiences in communicating the identity
This study analyses the self-representation of the Indonesian metrosexual community on Instagram focusing on how they use the platform to showcase their fashion style and express their identity as consumers and members of society. Metrosexuality is a relatively new phenomenon in Indonesia but it has quickly gained popularity particularly among urban men. Metrosexual men are typically highly interested in fashion beauty and maintaining a healthy lifestyle. They are also more brand-conscious than traditional consumers and are willing to invest in high-quality products. Social media has become an essential platform for the metrosexual community to express themselves and connect with others. Instagram in particular has become a popular platform for metrosexual men to share photos and videos of their outfits. This study examines how metrosexual consumers use Instagram to showcase their fashion style through their posts. The study employs a qualitative approach within the constructivist paradigm using phenomenological research methods including interviews observations and a literature review. The informants comprised ten Indonesian male Instagram users with the highest followers and engagement. The study’s findings suggest that metrosexual consumers prioritize comfort and suitability over brand and product prestige for day-to-day activities and social media engagement. Also the study reveals that metrosexual consumers use Instagram to express themselves and share their activities with others. Their commitment to their appearance extends beyond the online realm to offline settings. The study’s managerial implications underscore the importance of attending to male consumers for products such as clothing.

Camouflage in popular culture, fashion and accessory design in India
This article postulates that recent generations in India particularly the middle and upper-middle classes have experienced increased wealth due to the government’s open market policy introduced after 1991. As a result of this improved financial situation these consumers are now able to purchase affordable luxury goods. One notable trend emerging from this development is the rise in popularity of camouflage patterns in fashion and accessories. These patterns evoke emotions of military association rebellion strength durability ruggedness and a sense of distinctiveness from the rest of society. Surprisingly even though camouflage is intended to conceal and blend in with surroundings it has become a prominent aspect of popular culture in India. The younger generation aspires to stand out and possess larger-than-life personalities perhaps influenced by the impact of globalization. Various audio-visual media such as sci-fi literature and superheroes depicted on over-the-top (OTT) platforms contribute significantly to this trend with fashion statements playing a crucial role in shaping these perceptions. In response to such demand even international brands have started producing products featuring camouflage patterns for the Indian market. The widespread popularity of camo fashion and accessories can be observed in almost all public spaces across India.
The primary focus of this article is on exploring the popularity of camouflage in fashion accessories design and trends by studying consumers’ preferences for leading global and local brands. Through a comprehensive literature review a research gap in this area has been identified. The study concentrates on fashion accessories in India and takes a perspective of percolation of camouflage in the fashion market. The methodology involves the study of primary and secondary sources for documentation and a survey was conducted to gain insights into consumers’ perspectives. By conducting a literature review and a thorough data analysis the article reaches its conclusions.

Tribal and the Cultural Legacy of Streetwear
Tribal Streetwear is lifestyle streetwear brand that seeks to represent a variety of southern California sub-cultures that includes graffiti street art skateboarding surfing tattoos hip hop breakdancing punk lowriders and custom culture. Based in San Diego California Tribal has strong Chicano roots in its aesthetic and spans the globe with retail stores on several continents.
The text presents a series of articles essays and personal reflections that explore the various dimensions of Tribal Streetwear and how the impact of their designs continues to balance the precarious act of being relevant and responsible with their resources.
The book is divided into four sections.
Section 1 features essays that set a context for the text. This includes a history of Tribal and where it fits within the history of streetwear a personal narrative of the founding of Tribal and lastly an essay on the uniqueness of southern California aesthetics and the fascination with this southern California inspired fashion.
Section 2 is a series of interviews with notable artists musicians and cultural tastemakers that have contributed toward street culture and Tribal. These include Mr. Cartoon (tattoo artist) RISK (graffiti artist) PERSUE (street artists) Mike Giant (tattoo artist) Dyse One (graffiti artist) Craig Craig Stecyk III (skateboard culture) Bob Hurley (surf culture) and the Beastie Boys (hip hop).
Section 3 includes a series of invited and peer-reviewed academic articles on distinct subjects within the street culture genre that further dive into the inputs and influences of Tribal Streetwear. They include breakdancing surfing skateboarding graffiti street art tattooing music (hip-hop/punk) lowriders custom culture and Chicano Studies.
Section 4 is a series of photo essays that capture the three decades of Tribal Streetwear and serves as a visual history of the brand and the evolution of its graphics.

Bridging measurement and cultural interpretation: Experiencing the form-giving of men’s briefs
This article explores the first-hand experience of the diversity in styles of men’s briefs. It questions the standard categorization of briefs based on coverage and leg length. Due to the advent of internet-based sales channels the scope for design has widened dramatically. The quality and experience of underwear styles is not captured in waistband dimensions and information on fabric. The article questions some ideas about designers’ ability to communicate product understanding given the tacit non-verbal and haptic qualities inherent in briefs. It also raises questions about research paradigms common in industrial design research. This article is thus both about the subject (men’s briefs) and the means of research (research paradigm). The article combines aspects of design research used for industrial design and approaches such as wardrobe studies and interpretation used in fashion research.

When the clothes fit: Exploring the embodied transition to motherhood
Clothing practices can assist women in cultivating a particular body image and thus are sutured with details regarding how they manage their identity and appearance. Clothing can also help women cope with corporeal transitions such as pregnancy. The relationship between clothing and one’s perception of their body shape changes during pregnancy as does how women feel about their clothes as they assume a new maternal identity. However there is a lack of scholarly attention focused on exploring how postpartum mothers manage and relate to their bodies through clothing. Anchored in qualitative data collected from 128 in-depth longitudinal interviews with 32 women at three six nine and twelve months postpartum this article explores how postpartum body image satisfaction and change are intricately linked with clothing across the first year after childbirth. Depicted through six women’s postpartum journeys this article demonstrates that clothing becomes a barometer for bodily recovery following pregnancy and reveals details about maternal struggles successes and spending patterns in the postpartum period.

DEI representation on Instagram: An analysis of two fast fashion retailers
As fashion retailers have started to emphasize their responsibility in society the significance of diversity equity and inclusion (DEI) in the fashion industry has increased. This study explores the DEI commitments made by two fast fashion retailers (i.e. H&M and Zara) to examine whether they uphold and portray their DEI commitments through their Instagram postings by focusing on the following four DEI subcategories: people of colour size inclusivity LGBTQIA+ and physical disabilities. The study first analysed each retailer’s DEI statement to determine what claims each retailer makes regarding DEI. The data collection process comprised an examination of Instagram posts during the first week of every month from February 2021 to January 2022 utilizing the National Retail Federation (NRF) 4-5-4 calendar. Researchers collected qualitative/quantitative data and used content/comparative analysis to analyse the data. The findings indicated that representation might not be as equitable as their claims state. Based on the findings of this research the study provides practical implications for enhancing DEI representation in retailers’ Instagram posts and marketing to facilitate more effective communication. Further this study contributes to the existing literature on DEI commitments in the fashion industry by highlighting the practices of fast fashion retailers in their Instagram posts and marketing.

Determinants of a shift in consumer values towards minimalistic clothing consumption during global crises
The COVID-19 pandemic as a global crisis has affected the clothing consumption behaviour of consumers and it might create long-lasting changes in the fashion industry. Such behavioural shifts during global crises should be considered for sustainability-related marketing concepts and the way marketers promote sustainable clothing consumption during and after the crisis. This study explores the determinants of a shift in consumer values towards minimalistic clothing consumption during the COVID-19 pandemic in the under-researched country context of Iran. First a literature review was conducted on topics including sustainable fashion consumption and the COVID-19 pandemic the status of sustainable fashion consumption in Iran as well as the influence of demographic characteristics on sustainable consumption behaviour. Second a quantitative survey was administered to a sample of Iranian consumers (N = 382). The results reveal a value shift towards more minimalism and sufficiency in clothing consumption during the COVID-19 pandemic in the country context of Iran. Moreover the findings highlight that age and gender significantly influenced the extent of this shift in values while surprisingly no significant value shift was found because of employment or income changes. This article makes a unique contribution by exploring the value shifts towards minimalistic clothing consumption during global crises. Furthermore the results of the study shed some light on consumption behaviour in an under-researched middle eastern area.

Costume design in film: Telling the story and creating Malcolm X’s character in Spike Lee’s Malcolm X (1992)
Costume designers collaborate with film directors to bring the characters in the script to life. Film costumes are a visual tool of a narrative nature with which costume designers meet the diegetic needs of each story. Through clothing they make internal aspects of the characters visible such as their transformations their nature and styles their passions aspirations and suffering as well as aspects of the spatial temporal and social context in which the stories take place. This study explores costume design by Ruth E. Carter as a dramatic tool in the biopic Malcolm X (1992) directed by Spike Lee. To that end the function of film costumes is assessed both as a visual and narrative tool that exceeds the aesthetic dimension and is essential to give meaning to any film production.

The ‘look’! Aesthetic labour, aesthetic norms and appearance-based recruitment in the runway modelling industry
Aesthetic labour in the runway modelling industry refers to the practice of recruitment of models-workers on the basis of desired corporeal and facial dispositions. Aesthetic labour theory foregrounds embodiment which situates the value of physical appearance and aesthetic norms in the workplace context showcasing how the models-workers get recruited and stratified based on their looks. The study employs an explanatory sequential mixed-method design to investigate aesthetic norms including the desired corporeal and facial dispositions that are expected from models-workers in the runway modelling industry. The study included two phases a quantitative phase and a qualitative phase. The main objective of the first quantitative research phase was to investigate the aesthetic norms among 609 international runway models who were recruited to perform in designer exclusive fashion shows during seven consecutive annual fashion week seasons from 2013 to 2020 in New York Paris London and/or Milan. The main objective of the second qualitative research phase was to qualify aesthetic norms through a visual content analysis and in-depth exploration of 40 unretouched professional modelling snapshots (photographs of face and body) for the top new model talents in the 2019–20 fashion season. Model photos were extracted from the popular industry website Models.com. The rationale for collecting both quantitative and qualitative data was to form a robust and comprehensive assessment of aesthetic norms in the runway modelling industry. The same level of comprehensiveness would not be obtained by using either type of data individually. This article advances academic research on aesthetic labour in the fashion and modelling industry by showcasing why appearance-based recruitment in this sector represents the practice of occupational segregation that creates social inequalities and negatively impacts the labour market.

Copenhagen Chic
A Locational History of Copenhagen Fashion
Copenhagen has long been celebrated for its unique fashion design innovation and sustainability practices and yet there has never been a comprehensive history of Copenhagen fashion and its current innovation and sustainability drive.
This book fills that gap assembling a multidisciplinary roster of contributors to examine all aspects of Copenhagen fashion and culture. Grounded in a broad context of Danish culture industry media technology sustainability and innovation practices within the wider cultural and economic fields of fashion the book helps us understand what makes Copenhagen unique.

Transformative live-action roleplay and Dagorhir costumes: Regulation, consumption and power dynamics, 1977 to the present
Dagorhir is one of the largest and oldest documented live-action roleplay groups. Dagorhir organizers have published multiple game regulations via handbooks with much emphasis on costumes since the 1970s. Dagorhir facilitates community building identity negotiation and creative storytelling that expands beyond the game through transformative play. In our research we examine how these costume regulations have influenced fantasy character and real-world identities how the regulations have influenced perceived costume authenticity over time and how the handbook regulations have engaged with power dynamics related to intersectional identities. We analysed costume-related content in the three handbooks while drawing upon content analysis and historical methods. We found that as the regulations evolved since the 1970s the rules increasingly centred costumes indicating the prominence of costume in this escapist community. However while these spaces centred on the costumed body Dagorhir regulations reinforced oppressive intersectional norms. Our work has implications for society and business that is our findings can help individuals understand why people participate in live-action roleplay which may reduce stigma surrounding this activity. Additionally costume producers and retailers can make informed business decisions based upon our findings. Last live-action roleplay communities can utilize our findings to reject oppressive written and unwritten regulations.

Fashion Education
The Systemic Revolution
Fashion Education explores how the classroom can transform the fashion industry towards body inclusion and social justice.
The book is a collection of 17 essays by fashion educators from Australia Canada the US and the UK who recount their experiences struggles and strategies of reimagining the exclusive foundation of fashion pedagogy and redesigning fashion curricula to centre Indigenous Black brown fat disabled trans and queer worldviews histories and bodies.
This is the first book to explore the relationships between fashion pedagogy and social justice and to map out new pedagogical frameworks and tools to redistribute power through fashion education. It shares the teaching practices of fashion educators implementing radical pedagogies and offers practical case studies that engage with a number of intersectional positions.
Fashion Education engages with current pressing concerns for educators and is a valuable teaching resource for fashion educators – both theory and practice – working in art and design schools in Europe the US and the UK.
With chapters covering fashion theory history business communication and design curricula to centre Indigenous Black brown fat disabled trans queer worldviews histories and peoples it will appeal directly to the many disciplines within fashion. The discussions are also relevant to educators in other art design and creative fields also looking to centre inclusion in their courses and the strategies presented will apply to them.
Contributions from Tanveer Ahmed Kevin Almond Avalon Acaso Ben Barry Mal Burkinshaw Johnathan Clancy Robin J. Chantree Deborah A. Christel Brittany Dickinson Greg Climer Bianca Garcia Denise Nicole Green Alicia Johnson Lucy Jones Grace Jun Carmen Keist Riley Kucheran Michael Mamp Krys Osei Lauren Downing Peters Alexis Quinney Kelly L. Reddy-Best Austin Reeves Joshua Simon Colleen Schindler-Lynch Brandon Spencer and Sang Thai