Cultural Studies

New Approaches to Decolonizing Fashion History and Period Styles: Refashioning Pedagogies, Ashley Bellet (ed.) (2024)
Review of: New Approaches to Decolonizing Fashion History and Period Styles: Refashioning Pedagogies Ashley Bellet (ed.) (2024)
New York: Routledge 228 pp.
ISBN 978-1-03223-542-4 p/bk $42.95

Fashion Projects: 15 Years of Fashion in Dialogue, Francesca Granata (ed.) (2024)
Review of: Fashion Projects: 15 Years of Fashion in Dialogue Francesca Granata (ed.) (2024)
Bristol: Intellect 225 pp.
ISBN 978-1-78938-893-0 h/bk $134.95
ISBN 978-1-78938-894-7 e-book $103.95
ISBN 978-1-78938-895-4 e-PDF $103.95

Luxury Fashion and Media Communication: Between the Material and Immaterial, Paula von Wachenfeldt and Magdalena Petersson McIntyre (eds) (2024)
Review of: Luxury Fashion and Media Communication: Between the Material and Immaterial Paula von Wachenfeldt and Magdalena Petersson McIntyre (eds) (2024)
New York: Bloomsbury Visual Arts 214 pp.
ISBN 978-1-35029-106-5 h/bk £85.00

Understanding Fashion Scandals: Social Media, Identity, and Globalization, Annamari Vänskä and Olga Gurova (2024)
Review of: Understanding Fashion Scandals: Social Media Identity and Globalization Annamari Vänskä and Olga Gurova (2024)
London: Bloomsbury Publishing 235 pp.
ISBN 978-1-35024-896-0 h/bk £15.11

Fragmentation, taboos and advocacy: An examination of the Indian-Australian ethnic media
This article examines the advocacy role of Indian-Australian ethnic media and their efforts to address sociocultural issues within the Indian diaspora in Australia. Based on interviews with twelve media producers the study explores how these outlets raise awareness of challenges such as casteism dowry practices and sociopolitical divides. Ethnic media play a vital role in multicultural societies expressing cultural identity while managing relationships between minority and majority groups. However the findings show that financial and structural constraints often lead to editorial caution especially regarding contentious topics. This restraint is largely driven by reliance on advertising revenue from community businesses and government sources which affects editorial decisions. The study also reveals that these outlets often prioritize a broader national identity over engaging with internal divisions within the Indian diaspora such as those related to religion caste and class. The concept of multi-ethnic public sphere further supports the idea that ethnic media can promote inter-cultural dialogue though their potential is limited by ongoing financial challenges. This article highlights the need for greater institutional and financial backing to strengthen ethnic media’s ability to serve their communities. Supporting these outlets would allow for more active engagement with marginalized groups and internal dynamics positioning Indian-Australian ethnic media as key advocates for community interests within Australia’s multicultural framework and contributing to social change.

Experiences of self-gifting luxury fashion during the COVID-19 pandemic
Consumer behaviour is known to change during trying times as consumption has implications for the self. In fact the beginning of the COVID-19 pandemic saw a rise in self-gifting. Adopting a psychological lens this novel study explored females’ experiences of self-gifting luxury fashion during the pandemic. Given the under-researched area an exploratory qualitative approach was adopted and interpretative phenomenological analysis was used to understand participants’ experiences. A homogenous sample of four females were interviewed using semi-structured interviews to elicit rich data. Findings demonstrated that self-gifting of luxury fashion during the pandemic was a complex phenomenon that seemed to contribute to participants’ psychological well-being. The discussion links and extends the literature on self-gifting luxury consumer behaviour and consumption during trying times. It highlights implications for academic research individuals brands and retailers.

Contemporary queer fashion media as personal liberations: Qwear, digital media and twenty-first-century queer fashion shows
In the twenty-first century the emergence of numerous fashion brands catering to queer and trans communities has been accompanied by the establishment of notable queer-focused fashion media platforms. Noteworthy among these are DapperQ and Qwear which specialize in exploring the intersections of fashion style and the experiences of queer and trans individuals. This study delves into the history and intricacies of Qwear one of these contemporary groundbreaking queer media outlets. By examining this outlet we aim to unravel the multifaceted layers that distinguish them as influential conveyors of queer and trans sensibilities. To achieve our purpose we employed a historical research method incorporating the analysis of primary sources and oral history. Overall Qwear has become more than just outlets for style that is they stand as pillars of empowerment offering safer havens for individuals to explore celebrate and redefine their relationship with fashion. Sonny Oram’s founding journey of Qwear rooted in personal healing through clothing underscores the transformative power of fashion as a tool for self-discovery activism and solidarity within the queer and trans communities.

Analysis and optimization strategies for key factors in children’s clothing design
This study delves into the critical factors influencing children’s clothing design through a multifaceted approach. The investigation elucidates the most significant design elements by employing qualitative research methods the fuzzy Delphi method (FDM) and the fuzzy analytic hierarchy process (FAHP). Initially semi-structured interviews were conducted with experienced professionals encompassing children’s clothing designers and related specialists with a minimum of fifteen years of expertise. These interviews served to gather valuable insights and experiences. Subsequently the FDM was utilized to assess the relative importance of identified design elements. Finally the FAHP was implemented to determine the weights assigned to each factor establishing a hierarchy of importance. The findings reveal that safety reigns supreme as the most critical design consideration. Following safety are comfort style elements and practicality. Safety prioritizes the utilization of non-toxic materials and secure fastenings. Comfort emphasizes breathable fabrics and textures that are gentle against the skin. Style elements encompass colour palettes patterns and the incorporation of creative design aspects. Practical considerations delve into age-appropriateness freedom of movement garments with multifunctional purposes and enduring durability. This comprehensive study offers invaluable guidance for the field of children’s clothing design. It empowers designers to effectively address the needs of children while aligning with parental expectations. Ultimately this approach propels market development and fosters children’s enhanced quality of life.

Turning puzzle games into fashion: Exploring personal outfits through symbol-based clothing assembly
The intersection of gaming and fashion opens a novel avenue for personal expression through symbol-based clothing assembly akin to puzzle games. This study delves into the transformative potential of integrating the mechanics of puzzles into creating personal outfits fostering a platform for individuals to manifest their distinctive style and creativity. The research scrutinizes the design process highlighting the symbiotic relationship between self-expression and individuality and the cognitive stimulation provided by the puzzle-solving aspect that enhances the wearer’s brainstorming capabilities. Implementing this concept poses a unique set of challenges and opportunities aiming to redefine the paradigms of fashion design. Ultimately this innovative approach seeks to revolutionize personal style creating a dynamic and interactive experience that resonates with the wearer’s identity and ingenuity.

Fashion influences of women university administrators
Women administrators are responsible for a broad array of difficult management tasks that affect their higher education institutions. There exist great societal expectations regarding women’s dress and appearance management practices. In this study we identify the clothing-related influences women leaders used to develop their roles as university administrators. We interviewed 36 women in high-level administrative leadership roles at a Midwestern doctoral-granting land grant university. Qualitative thematic analysis revealed four major influences: (1) the importance of complying with the (unofficial) university dress code or ‘uniform’ (2) the comparison negotiation and influence of others (3) dressing for their roles and (4) fitting into social and cultural norms. Through the lens of social identity theory findings revealed that administrators’ practices were negotiated through a process of observation contemplation of their own individuality and responsibilities and close identification of themselves as leaders within their specific university setting. Implications for retailers and aspiring leaders are included.

Visual merchandising in fashion retail: The diversity, equity and inclusion (DEI) perspective
Diversity equity and inclusion (DEI) has been at the forefront of many disciplines in recent years. Utilizing three different aspects of visual merchandising in the context of fashion retail this study investigates the effects of (1) colours of mannequins (2) sizes of mannequins and (3) the presence of a rainbow flag as signage in a physical store on consumers’ feelings towards the store and related clothing styles in addition to their perceptions of the store’s commitment to DEI. Using an online survey data were collected from a 2 × 2 × 2 factorial experimental design with 382 responses. Findings suggest that mannequin sizes influenced the participants’ overall feelings towards a store in addition to mixed interaction effects among mannequin sizes colours and/or use of a rainbow flag. Discussion and implications are provided.

New Queer Television
From Marginalization to Mainstreamification
Though queer critics and queer theory tend to frame queer identities as marginal this edited volume draws attention to a dynamic field in which a wide variety of queer identities can be put on display and consumed by audiences. Cementing a foundational understanding of queerness that is at odds with current shifts in media production contributors present a broad variety of queer identities from across a range of televisual shows and genres to reconsider the marginalization of queerness in the twenty-first century. Doing so challenges preexisting notions that such “mainstreamification” necessitates being subsumed by the cisheteropatriarchy. This project argues the opposite showing that heteronormative assumptions are outdated and that new queer representations lay the groundwork for filling gaps that queer criticism has left open.
Thomas Brassington is a researcher whose work explores intersections of queerness and the Gothic in contemporary popular culture. Debra Ferreday is a feminist cultural theorist whose research concerns gender feminist theory sexuality critical race theory queer theory and embodiment. Dany Girard is a queer researcher whose work primarily explores representations of gender asexualities and queer theory in television and film.