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Fashion, Style & Popular Culture - Online First
Online First articles will be assigned issues in due course.
1 - 20 of 61 results
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Luxury Fashion and Media Communication: Between the Material and Immaterial, Paula von Wachenfeldt and Magdalena Petersson McIntyre (eds) (2024)
By Zhe WangAvailable online: 11 February 2025More LessReview of: Luxury Fashion and Media Communication: Between the Material and Immaterial, Paula von Wachenfeldt and Magdalena Petersson McIntyre (eds) (2024)
New York: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 214 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-35029-106-5, h/bk, £85.00
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Cosmetics Marketing: Strategy and Innovation in the Beauty Industry, Lindsay Karchin and Delphine Horvath (2023)
Available online: 11 February 2025More LessReview of: Cosmetics Marketing: Strategy and Innovation in the Beauty Industry, Lindsay Karchin and Delphine Horvath (2023)
London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 253 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-35029-943-6, p/bk, $44.95
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Textiles on Film, Becky Peterson (2024)
By Chris BaezaAvailable online: 11 February 2025More LessReview of: Textiles on Film, Becky Peterson (2024)
London: Bloomsbury, 184 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-35002-655-1, h/bk, $70.00
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New Approaches to Decolonizing Fashion History and Period Styles: Refashioning Pedagogies, Ashley Bellet (ed.) (2024)
Available online: 11 February 2025More LessReview of: New Approaches to Decolonizing Fashion History and Period Styles: Refashioning Pedagogies, Ashley Bellet (ed.) (2024)
New York: Routledge, 228 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-03223-542-4, p/bk, $42.95
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Shirts, Shifts and Sheets of Fine Linen: British Seamstresses from the 17th to the 19th Century, Pam Inder (2024)
By Renée LambAvailable online: 11 February 2025More LessReview of: Shirts, Shifts and Sheets of Fine Linen: British Seamstresses from the 17th to the 19th Century, Pam Inder (2024)
London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 311 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-35025-296-7, h/bk, $115.00
ISBN 978-1-35025-297-4, e-PDF, $103.50
ISBN 978-1-35025-298-1, e-book, $103.50
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Fashion Projects: 15 Years of Fashion in Dialogue, Francesca Granata (ed.) (2024)
Available online: 11 February 2025More LessReview of: Fashion Projects: 15 Years of Fashion in Dialogue, Francesca Granata (ed.) (2024)
Bristol: Intellect, 225 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-78938-893-0, h/bk, $134.95
ISBN 978-1-78938-894-7, e-book, $103.95
ISBN 978-1-78938-895-4, e-PDF, $103.95
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Dress and Identity in America: The Baby Boom Years 1946–1964, Daniel Delis Hill (2024)
Available online: 11 February 2025More LessReview of: Dress and Identity in America: The Baby Boom Years 1946–1964, Daniel Delis Hill (2024)
London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 242 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-3503, h/bk, $80.50
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Tribal and the Cultural Legacy of Streetwear, G. James Daichendt (ed.) (2024)
Available online: 11 February 2025More LessReview of: Tribal and the Cultural Legacy of Streetwear, G. James Daichendt (ed.) (2024)
Bristol: Intellect Books, 240 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-78938-808-4, p/bk, EUR 29.99
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Understanding Fashion Scandals: Social Media, Identity, and Globalization, Annamari Vänskä and Olga Gurova (2024)
Available online: 11 February 2025More LessReview of: Understanding Fashion Scandals: Social Media, Identity, and Globalization, Annamari Vänskä and Olga Gurova (2024)
London: Bloomsbury Publishing, 235 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-35024-896-0, h/bk, £15.11
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Latin American and Latinx Fashion Design Today: ¡Moda Hoy!, Tanya Meléndez-Escalante and Melissa Marra-Alvarez (2024)
Available online: 11 February 2025More LessReview of: Latin American and Latinx Fashion Design Today: ¡Moda Hoy!, Tanya Meléndez-Escalante and Melissa Marra-Alvarez (2024)
New York: Bloomsbury, 272 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-35034-395-5, h/bk, $42.40
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Hang Ups: Reflections on the Causes and Consequences of Fashion’s ‘Western’-Centrism, Benjamin Linley Wild (2024)
By Joy SperlingAvailable online: 11 February 2025More LessReview of: Hang Ups: Reflections on the Causes and Consequences of Fashion’s ‘Western’-Centrism, Benjamin Linley Wild (2024)
London, New York, New Delhi and Sydney: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 292 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-35019-724-4, h/bk, $103.50
ISBN 978-1-35019-723-7, p/bk, $34.15
ISBN 978-1-35019-725-1, e-PDF, $27.32
ISBN 978-1-35019-726-8, e-book, $27.32
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Butts: A Backstory, Heather Radke (2022)
By Joy SperlingAvailable online: 11 February 2025More LessReview of: Butts: A Backstory, Heather Radke (2022)
New York: Avid Reader Press, 310 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-98213-548-5, h/bk, $28.99
ISBN 978-1-98213-549-2, p/bk, $18.99
ISBN 978-1-98213-552-2, e-book, $14.99
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Visual merchandising in fashion retail: The diversity, equity and inclusion (DEI) perspective
Authors: Jihyun Sung, Ruoh-Nan Yan and Kevin KissellAvailable online: 30 January 2025More LessDiversity, equity and inclusion (DEI) has been at the forefront of many disciplines in recent years. Utilizing three different aspects of visual merchandising in the context of fashion retail, this study investigates the effects of (1) colours of mannequins, (2) sizes of mannequins and (3) the presence of a rainbow flag as signage in a physical store on consumers’ feelings towards the store and related clothing styles, in addition to their perceptions of the store’s commitment to DEI. Using an online survey, data were collected from a 2 × 2 × 2 factorial experimental design with 382 responses. Findings suggest that mannequin sizes influenced the participants’ overall feelings towards a store, in addition to mixed interaction effects among mannequin sizes, colours and/or use of a rainbow flag. Discussion and implications are provided.
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Experiences of self-gifting luxury fashion during the COVID-19 pandemic
Authors: Samiha Alloub and Soljana ÇiliAvailable online: 30 January 2025More LessConsumer behaviour is known to change during trying times as consumption has implications for the self. In fact, the beginning of the COVID-19 pandemic saw a rise in self-gifting. Adopting a psychological lens, this novel study explored females’ experiences of self-gifting luxury fashion during the pandemic. Given the under-researched area, an exploratory qualitative approach was adopted and interpretative phenomenological analysis was used to understand participants’ experiences. A homogenous sample of four females were interviewed using semi-structured interviews to elicit rich data. Findings demonstrated that self-gifting of luxury fashion during the pandemic was a complex phenomenon that seemed to contribute to participants’ psychological well-being. The discussion links and extends the literature on self-gifting, luxury consumer behaviour and consumption during trying times. It highlights implications for academic research, individuals, brands and retailers.
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Turning puzzle games into fashion: Exploring personal outfits through symbol-based clothing assembly
Authors: Md. Farhad Ahmed Bhuyan, Md. Mahbubor Rahman, Md. Washim Akram and Tanvir TalimAvailable online: 30 January 2025More LessThe intersection of gaming and fashion opens a novel avenue for personal expression through symbol-based clothing assembly, akin to puzzle games. This study delves into the transformative potential of integrating the mechanics of puzzles into creating personal outfits, fostering a platform for individuals to manifest their distinctive style and creativity. The research scrutinizes the design process, highlighting the symbiotic relationship between self-expression and individuality, and the cognitive stimulation provided by the puzzle-solving aspect that enhances the wearer’s brainstorming capabilities. Implementing this concept poses a unique set of challenges and opportunities, aiming to redefine the paradigms of fashion design. Ultimately, this innovative approach seeks to revolutionize personal style, creating a dynamic and interactive experience that resonates with the wearer’s identity and ingenuity.
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Analysis and optimization strategies for key factors in children’s clothing design
Authors: Hsiu-Ching Lü and Jiann-Wen HuangAvailable online: 30 January 2025More LessThis study delves into the critical factors influencing children’s clothing design through a multifaceted approach. The investigation elucidates the most significant design elements by employing qualitative research methods, the fuzzy Delphi method (FDM), and the fuzzy analytic hierarchy process (FAHP). Initially, semi-structured interviews were conducted with experienced professionals, encompassing children’s clothing designers and related specialists with a minimum of fifteen years of expertise. These interviews served to gather valuable insights and experiences. Subsequently, the FDM was utilized to assess the relative importance of identified design elements. Finally, the FAHP was implemented to determine the weights assigned to each factor, establishing a hierarchy of importance. The findings reveal that safety reigns supreme as the most critical design consideration. Following safety are comfort, style elements and practicality. Safety prioritizes the utilization of non-toxic materials and secure fastenings. Comfort emphasizes breathable fabrics and textures that are gentle against the skin. Style elements encompass colour palettes, patterns and the incorporation of creative design aspects. Practical considerations delve into age-appropriateness, freedom of movement, garments with multifunctional purposes and enduring durability. This comprehensive study offers invaluable guidance for the field of children’s clothing design. It empowers designers to effectively address the needs of children while aligning with parental expectations. Ultimately, this approach propels market development and fosters children’s enhanced quality of life.
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Fashion influences of women university administrators
Authors: Huanjiao Dong, Sara Marcketti and Eden KnudsonAvailable online: 30 January 2025More LessWomen administrators are responsible for a broad array of difficult management tasks that affect their higher education institutions. There exist great societal expectations regarding women’s dress and appearance management practices. In this study, we identify the clothing-related influences women leaders used to develop their roles as university administrators. We interviewed 36 women in high-level administrative leadership roles at a Midwestern doctoral-granting land grant university. Qualitative thematic analysis revealed four major influences: (1) the importance of complying with the (unofficial) university dress code or ‘uniform’, (2) the comparison, negotiation and influence of others, (3) dressing for their roles and (4) fitting into social and cultural norms. Through the lens of social identity theory, findings revealed that administrators’ practices were negotiated through a process of observation, contemplation of their own individuality and responsibilities, and close identification of themselves as leaders within their specific university setting. Implications for retailers and aspiring leaders are included.
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Contemporary queer fashion media as personal liberations: Qwear, digital media and twenty-first-century queer fashion shows
Authors: Kelly L. Reddy-Best and Megan RomansAvailable online: 30 January 2025More LessIn the twenty-first century, the emergence of numerous fashion brands catering to queer and trans communities has been accompanied by the establishment of notable queer-focused fashion media platforms. Noteworthy among these are DapperQ and Qwear, which specialize in exploring the intersections of fashion, style and the experiences of queer and trans individuals. This study delves into the history and intricacies of Qwear, one of these contemporary, groundbreaking queer media outlets. By examining this outlet, we aim to unravel the multifaceted layers that distinguish them as influential conveyors of queer and trans sensibilities. To achieve our purpose, we employed a historical research method, incorporating the analysis of primary sources and oral history. Overall, Qwear has become more than just outlets for style, that is, they stand as pillars of empowerment, offering safer havens for individuals to explore, celebrate and redefine their relationship with fashion. Sonny Oram’s founding journey of Qwear, rooted in personal healing through clothing, underscores the transformative power of fashion as a tool for self-discovery, activism and solidarity within the queer and trans communities.
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Threads of insight: Exploring the narrative of online reviews (2002–22) in the apparel industry through bibliometrics
Authors: Yashu Garg, Krishan Gopal and Ajay ChandelAvailable online: 19 October 2024More LessOnline reviews have become crucial in research and consumer decision-making, providing insights into customer perspectives on products and services. In today’s digital age, they are an essential tool for retailers to engage with their customers. This is particularly true in the apparel industry, where understanding consumer satisfaction and preferences is key to crafting effective marketing strategies. Despite the abundance of literature on the impact of online reviews on consumer evaluations of ready-made garments, there has been limited scientific analysis of this extensive body of work. This bibliometric study utilizes performance analysis and science mapping to rigorously examine the body of literature on online reviews. Performance analysis assesses the quality and quantity of various scientific contributions using a suite of bibliometric indicators, such as publication trends, leading authors and journals, and the most influential publications. To complement this, science mapping is employed to elucidate the broader intellectual, social and conceptual frameworks of the field, providing a holistic view of its fundamental dynamics that performance analysis alone cannot offer. We analysed 161 articles published between 2002 and 2022, selected via targeted keywords from the Scopus database. The data was processed using VOSviewer (1.6.20) and Biblioshiny, a web-based platform powered by the R-package Bibliometrix 4.1. This study not only delves into the historical and current states of the literature but also identifies and discusses future research agendas in online reviews within the apparel industry.
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Online reviews and Gen Z consumers’ satisfaction in the apparel industry: An expectation disconfirmation theory
Authors: Yashu Garg and Krishan GopalAvailable online: 19 October 2024More LessThis research article aims to analyse how online reviews influence the satisfaction level of Generation Z (Gen Z) consumers within the apparel industry by using the expectation disconfirmation theory as the analytical framework. Five hypotheses have been developed regarding the relationships between online reviews and satisfaction through literature review and were examined using partial least squares structural equation modelling (PLS-SEM). In the research article, data were gathered from 350 Gen Z consumers engaged in online shopping across three districts of Punjab. Questionnaires were distributed to the respondents in hard copy and Google Forms. The findings from this research article suggest a positive correlation between online reviews and the satisfaction level of Gen Z consumers in the apparel industry. The analysis reveals that online reviews play a significant role in influencing the online shopping of apparel.
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Fashion and Appropriation
Authors: Denise Nicole Green and Susan B. Kaiser
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