Skip to content
1981
  1. Home
  2. A-Z Publications
  3. International Journal of Sustainable Fashion & Textiles
  4. Volume 1, Issue 2
  5. Article
Circular Economy in Fashion and Textiles
  • ISSN: 2754-026X
  • E-ISSN: 2754-0278

Abstract

The purpose of this article is to provide information about the approach to developing circular fashion collections concepts built from scratch. I documented my approach to design my collection , launched in 2020, to understand and analyse the challenges and barriers stemming from applying circular design strategies. Current literature highlights organizational but also individual factors as instrumental in hindering the transition from a linear industry into a new one that embraces the circular economy as a solution to tackle environmental and societal issues. Bridging the various design stages and production, fashion designers play a major role for the urgent industry shift. However, limited time availability and a lack of knowledge and guidance often influence the adoption of new skills that can foster circular fashion design. To address this, I exemplarily applied circular design strategies and used reflective practice as a research method to analyse the technical as well as the cognitive impact of designing for a closed-loop business model. By using a visual diagram of a core loop with four additional satellites to map my design decisions against, I identified opportunities of designing with a circular strategy affecting all aspects from material sourcing to collection production and distribution, repair, reuse/closing the loop. The consideration of external factors such as customers (here users) enriches the value of circular design; hence, I conducted a free pilot with five users to test the effectiveness of my prototype collection. Open-ended questionnaires revealed their experience of wearing a garment of their choice and enabled a user-centric iteration process resulting in improving my collection for lease. Flexibility and systems thinking were main internal factors that I defined as essential for creating my circular collection concept alongside expanding the designer’s role from garment developer to facilitator of closed fashion loops.

© 2022 Intellect Ltd
Loading

Article metrics loading...

/content/journals/10.1386/sft_0011_1
2022-10-01
2025-04-20
Loading full text...

Full text loading...

References

  1. Allwood, J. M.,, Laursen, S. E.,, Malvido de Rodriguez, C., and Bocken, N. M. P.. ( 2006), Well Dressed? The Present and the Future Sustainability of Clothing and Textiles in the United Kingdom, Cambridge:: University of Cambridge Institute for Manufacturing;.
     [Google Scholar]
  2. Armstrong, C. M.,, Niinimäki, K.,, Kujala, S.,, Karell, E., and Lang, C.. ( 2015;), ‘ Sustainable product-service systems for clothing: Exploring consumer perceptions of consumption alternatives in Finland. ’, Journal of Cleaner Production, 97, pp. 30–39.
     [Google Scholar]
  3. Baek, E., and Oh, G.-E.. ( 2021;), ‘ Diverse values of fashion rental service and contamination concern of consumers. ’, Journal of Business Research, 123, February, pp. 165–75.
     [Google Scholar]
  4. Birdsong ( n.d.;), ‘ Impact report. ’, https://birdsong.london/blogs/magazine/birdsong-2020-impact-report. Accessed 6 May 2020.
  5. Boiten, V. J.,, Han, S. L.-C., and Tyler, D.. ( 2017;), ‘ Circular economy stakeholder perspectives: Textile collection strategies to support material circularity. ’, 6th International Fibre Recycling Symposium, Manchester Metropolitan University, Manchester, 7–8 June.
     [Google Scholar]
  6. Braungart, M., and McDonough, W.. ( 2009), Cradle to Cradle: Remaking the Way We Make Things, London:: Vintage Digital;.
     [Google Scholar]
  7. Bruggeman, D.. ( 2018), Dissolving the Ego of Fashion, Arnhem:: ArtEZ Press;.
     [Google Scholar]
  8. BVSE e.V, German Federal Association for Secondary Raw Materials and Waste Management ( 2020), Demand, Consumption, Reuse and Recycling of Clothing and Textiles in Germany, Bonn:: BVSE;, https://www.bvse.de/dateien2020/2-PDF/02-Presse/06-Textil/2020/bvse-Textilstudie_2020_eng.pdf. Accessed 8 March 2022.
     [Google Scholar]
  9. Candy, L.. ( 2020), The Creative Reflective Practitioner, London:: Routledge;.
     [Google Scholar]
  10. Centrala Space ( n.d.;), ‘ Exhibition. ’, http://centrala-space.org.uk/exhibition/walking-distance---fashion-on-a-different-route. Accessed 8 February 2022.
  11. Chapman, J.. ( 2015), Emotionally Durable Design: Objects, Experiences and Empathy, Trowbridge:: Cromwell Press UK;.
     [Google Scholar]
  12. Chen, H.-L., and Davis Burns, L.. ( 2006;), ‘ Environmental analysis of textile products. ’, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 24:3, pp. 248–61.
     [Google Scholar]
  13. Clark, H.. ( 2008;), ‘ Slow + fashion: An oxymoron – or a promise for the future…?. ’, Journal of Fashion Theory, 12:4, pp. 427–46.
     [Google Scholar]
  14. Dan, C. M., and Østergaard, T.. ( 2021;), ‘ Circular fashion: The new roles of designers in organizations transitioning to a circular economy. ’, Design Journal, 24:6, pp. 1–22.
     [Google Scholar]
  15. De Brito, M. P.,, Carbone, V., and Meunier Blanquart, C.. ( 2008;), ‘ Towards a sustainable fashion retail supply chain in Europe: Organisation and performance. ’, International Journal of Production Economics, 114:2, pp. 534–53.
     [Google Scholar]
  16. Dunne, D., and Martin, R.. ( 2006;), ‘ Design thinking and how it will change management education: An interview and discussion. ’, Academy of Management Learning & Education, 5:4, pp. 512–23.
     [Google Scholar]
  17. Ellen MacArthur Foundation ( 2017), A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning Fashion’s Future, Cowes:: EMF;, https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/assets/downloads/publications/A-New-Textiles-Economy_Full-Report.pdf. Accessed 8 March 2022.
     [Google Scholar]
  18. European Commission ( 2020;), ‘ Circular economy action plan: For a cleaner and more competitive Europe. ’, 11 March, https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?qid=1583933814386&uri=COM:2020:98:FIN. Accessed 7 May 2021.
  19. Fabric Works ( n.d.;), ‘ Social enterprise. ’, https://www.fabricworkslondon.org/page3. Accessed 10 March 2021.
  20. Fisher, T.,, Cooper, T.,, Woodward, S.,, Hiller, A., and Gorowek, H.. ( 2008), Public Understanding of Sustainable Clothing: A Research Report for the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs, London:: DEFRA;.
     [Google Scholar]
  21. Fletcher, K.. ( 2016), Craft of Use: Post-Growth Fashion, London:: Routledge;.
     [Google Scholar]
  22. French II, R. P.. ( 2016;), ‘ The fuzziness of mindsets: Divergent conceptualizations and characterizations of mindset theory and praxis. ’, International Journal of Organizational Analysis, 24:4, pp. 673–91.
     [Google Scholar]
  23. Fry, T.. ( 2012), Design Futuring: Sustainability, Ethics and New Practice, London:: Bloomsbury;.
     [Google Scholar]
  24. Ganni ( n.d.;), ‘ Ganni repeat. ’, https://www.ganni.com/en-gb/ganni-repeat.html. Accessed 10 March 2022.
  25. Harding, T. S., and Whitehead, D.. ( 2015;), ‘ Analysing data in qualitative research. ’, in Z. Schneider, and D. Whitehead. (eds), Nursing & Midwifery Research: Methods and Appraisal for Evidence-Based Practice, , 4th ed.., Sydney:: Elsevier;, pp. 127–42.
     [Google Scholar]
  26. Harper, C.. ( 2014;), ‘ Sex, birth and nurture until death: Patching together quilted bed covers. ’, in A. Moran, and S. O’Brien. (eds), Love Objects: Emotion, Design and Material Culture, London:: Bloomsbury;, pp. 31–40.
     [Google Scholar]
  27. Hur, E., and Cassidy, T.. ( 2019;), ‘ Perceptions and attitudes towards sustainable fashion design: Challenges and opportunities for implementing sustainability in fashion. ’, International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 12:2, pp. 208–17.
     [Google Scholar]
  28. Kant, R.. ( 2012;), ‘ Textile dyeing industry an environmental hazard. ’, Journal of Natural Science, 4:1, pp. 22–26.
     [Google Scholar]
  29. Koren, L.. ( 2008), Wabi-Sabi for Artists, Designers, Poets & Philosophers, Ryes:: Imperfect Publishing Point;.
     [Google Scholar]
  30. Koszewska, M.. ( 2018;), ‘ Circular economy: Challenges for the textile and clothing industry. ’, Autex Research Journal, 18:4, pp. 337–47.
     [Google Scholar]
  31. Kozlowski, A.,, Searcy, C., and Bardecki, M.. ( 2018;), ‘ The redesign canvas: Fashion design as a tool for sustainability. ’, Journal of Cleaner Production, 183, pp. 194–207.
     [Google Scholar]
  32. Lee, S. H. N., and Chow, P. S.. ( 2021;), ‘ Investigating consumer attitudes and intentions towards online renting retailing. ’, Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, 52, January, p. 101892.
     [Google Scholar]
  33. Lee, Z. W. Y.,, Chan, T. K. H.,, Balaji, M., and Chong, A.-L.. ( 2018;), ‘ Why people participate in the sharing economy: An empirical investigation of Uber. ’, Internet Research, 28:3, pp. 829–50.
     [Google Scholar]
  34. Lena the Fashion Library ( n.d.;), ‘ Hoe het werkt. ’, https://lena-library.com/p/hoe-het-werkt. Accessed 12 February 2022.
  35. Lettmann, S., and Schmoeckel, P.. ( 2022;), ‘ From global problem to local solution: How a future-directed circular economy can foster social change. ’, in V. Pal. (ed.), Social and Cultural Aspects of the Circular Economy: Toward Solidarity and Inclusivity, London:: Routledge;, pp. 160–77.
     [Google Scholar]
  36. Leube, M., and Walcher, D.. ( 2017;), ‘ Designing for the next (circular) economy: An appeal to renew the curricula of design schools. ’, Design Journal, 20:sup1, pp. S492–501.
     [Google Scholar]
  37. Lynn, M., and Harris, J.. ( 1997;), ‘ The desire for unique consumer products: A new individual differences scale. ’, Psychology & Marketing, 14:6, pp. 601–16.
     [Google Scholar]
  38. Maldini, I.,, Stappers, P. J.,, Gimeno-Martinez, J. C., and Daanen, H. A. M.. ( 2019;), ‘ Assessing the impact of design strategies on clothing lifetimes, usage and volumes: The case of product personalization. ’, Journal of Cleaner Production, 210, pp. 1414–24.
     [Google Scholar]
  39. Mazzarella, F.,, Storey, H., and Williams, D.. ( 2019;), ‘ Counternarratives towards sustainability in fashion: Scoping an academic discourse on fashion activism through a case study on the Centre for Sustainable Fashion. ’, Design Journal, 22:1, pp. 821–33.
     [Google Scholar]
  40. McQuillan, H.. ( 2019;), ‘ Hybrid zero waste design practices: Zero waste pattern cutting for composite garment weaving and its implications. ’, Design Journal, 22:1, pp. 803–19.
     [Google Scholar]
  41. Murray, A.,, Skene, K., and Haynes, K.. ( 2017;), ‘ The circular economy: An interdisciplinary exploration of the concept and application in a global context. ’, Journal of Business Ethics, 140:3, pp. 369–80.
     [Google Scholar]
  42. Niinimäki, K.. (ed.) ( 2018;), ‘ Sustainable fashion in a circular economy. ’, in Sustainable Fashion in a Circular Economy, Aalto:: Arts Books;, pp. 12–41.
     [Google Scholar]
  43. Nixon, N. W., and Blakley, J.. ( 2012;), ‘ Fashion thinking: Towards an actionable methodology. ’, Fashion Practice: Design, Creative Process and the Fashion Industry, 4:2, pp. 153–76.
     [Google Scholar]
  44. Park, H., and Armstrong, C. M. J.. ( 2017;), ‘ Collaborative apparel consumption in the digital sharing economy: An agenda for academic inquiry. ’, International Journal of Consumer Studies, 41:5, pp. 465–74.
     [Google Scholar]
  45. Pedersen, E. R. G.,, Earley, R., and Andersen, K. R.. ( 2019;), ‘ From singular to plural: Exploring organisational complexities and circular business model design. ’, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 23:3, pp. 308–26.
     [Google Scholar]
  46. Ræbild, U., and Bang, A. L.. ( 2017;), ‘ Rethinking the fashion collection as a design strategic tool in a circular economy. ’, Design Journal, 20:sup1, pp. S589–99.
     [Google Scholar]
  47. Rissanen, T.. ( 2013;), ‘ Zero waste fashion design: A study at the intersection of cloth, fashion design and pattern cutting. ’, Ph.D. thesis, Sydney:: University of Technology Sydney;.
     [Google Scholar]
  48. Ritzén, S., and Sandström, G. Ö.. ( 2017;), ‘ Barriers to the circular economy: Integration of perspectives and domains. ’, Procedia CIRP, 64, pp. 7–12.
     [Google Scholar]
  49. Sandvik, I. M., and Stubbs, W.. ( 2019;), ‘ Circular fashion supply chain through textile-to-textile recycling. ’, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 23:3, pp. 366–81.
     [Google Scholar]
  50. Schön, D. A.. ( 1991), The Reflective Practitioner: How Professionals Think in Action, Aldershot:: Ashgate Publishing;.
     [Google Scholar]
  51. Smart Indigo ( n.d.;), ‘ Dyers. ’, https://www.smartindigo.com/dyers/. Accessed 8 March 2022.
  52. Sorger, R., and Udale, J.. ( 2017), The Fundamentals of Fashion Design, London:: Bloomsbury;.
     [Google Scholar]
  53. Spelman, E.. ( 2002), Repair: The Impulse to Restore in a Fragile World, Boston, MA:: Beacon Press;.
     [Google Scholar]
  54. Stephenson, B.. ( 2016;), ‘ The end of products, the end of ownership: Is this the future of business?. ’, World Economic Forum, 23 June, https://www.weforum.org/agenda/2016/06/how-can-the-internet-of-things-inspire-a-shift-to-a-circular-economy/. Accessed 8 March 2022.
     [Google Scholar]
  55. Sumter, D.,, de Koning, J.,, Bakker, C., and Balkenende, R.. ( 2021;), ‘ Key competencies for design in a circular economy: Exploring gaps in design knowledge and skills for a circular economy. ’, Journal of Sustainability, 13:2, p. 776.
     [Google Scholar]
  56. ThredUp ( 2021;), ‘ 2021 resale report. ’, https://www.thredup.com/resale/#resale-industry. Accessed 8 March 2022.
  57. United Nations ( 2015;), ‘ Transforming our world: The 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development. ’, 18 September, https://www.un.org/ga/search/view_doc.asp?symbol=A/RES/70/1&Lang=E. Accessed 8 March 2022.
  58. Vehmas, K.,, Raudaskoski, A.,, Heikkilä, P.,, Harlin, A., and Mensonen, A.. ( 2018;), ‘ Consumer attitudes and communication in circular fashion. ’, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 22:3, pp. 286–300.
     [Google Scholar]
  59. Williams, D.. ( 2019;), ‘ What’s going on? A discourse in fashion, design, and sustainability. ’, Fashion Practice, 11:3, pp. 283–90.
     [Google Scholar]
  60. WRAP ( 2019), Textiles Market Situation Report, https://wrap.org.uk/sites/default/files/2021-03/WRAP-textiles-market-situation-report-2019.pdf. Accessed 20 July 2022.
     [Google Scholar]
  61. WRAP ( 2021;), ‘ Textiles 2030 circularity pathway. ’, https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/ukft/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/26184402/Textiles-2030-Circularity-Pathway.pdf. Accessed 8 March 2022.
  62. Wu, G.-H.,, Wang, L.-L.,, Ding, X.-M.,, Wu, X.-Y.,, Liu, S.-Q., and Cuc, S.. ( 2015;), ‘ Water footprint and carbon footprint reduction in textile’s waste recycling. ’, Industria Textila, 66:2, pp. 85–89.
     [Google Scholar]
  63. Lettmann, Sabine. ( 2022;), ‘ The approach to circular fashion design: An exploration of designing for otherways[project]. ’, International Journal of Sustainable Fashion & Textiles, 1:2, pp. 201–21, https://bibliotheek.ehb.be:2102/10.1386/sft_0011_1
     [Google Scholar]
/content/journals/10.1386/sft_0011_1
Loading
The approach to circular fashion design: An exploration of designing for otherways[project]
International Journal of Sustainable Fashion & Textiles 1, 201 (2022); https://bibliotheek.ehb.be:2102/10.1386/sft_0011_1
/content/journals/10.1386/sft_0011_1
/content/journals/10.1386/sft_0011_1
Loading

Data & Media loading...

  • Article Type: Article
Keyword(s): circular fashion design; design strategies; shared usership; sustainability; systems thinking; user feedback

Most Cited Most Cited RSS feed

This is a required field
Please enter a valid email address
Approval was a success
Invalid data
An error occurred
Approval was partially successful, following selected items could not be processed due to error
Please enter a valid_number test